Why We Travel,
By Pico Iyer
We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and
we travel, next, to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and
learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate. We travel to
bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the
globe whose riches are differently dispersed. And we travel, in essence, to
become young fools again — to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love
once more. The beauty of this whole process was best described, perhaps, before
people even took to frequent flying, by George Santayana in his lapidary essay,
“The Philosophy of Travel.” We need sometimes,” the Harvard philosopher wrote,
“to escape into open solitudes, into aimlessness, into the moral holiday of
running some pure hazard, in order to sharpen the edge of life, to taste
hardship, and to be compelled to work desperately for a moment at no matter
what.”
I like that stress on work, since never more than on the road
are we shown how proportional our blessings are to the difficulty that precedes
them; and I like the stress on a holiday that’s “moral” since we fall into our
ethical habits as easily as into our beds at night. Few of us ever forget the
connection between “travel” and “travail,” and I know that I travel in large
part in search of hardship — both my own, which I want to feel, and others’,
which I need to see. Travel in that sense guides us toward a better balance of
wisdom and compassion — of seeing the world clearly, and yet feeling it truly. For
seeing without feeling can obviously be uncaring; while feeling without seeing
can be blind.
Yet for me the first great joy of traveling is simply the luxury
of leaving all my beliefs and certainties at home, and seeing everything I
thought I knew in a different light, and from a crooked angle. In that regard,
even a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet (in Beijing) or a scratchy revival showing
of “Wild Orchids” (on the Champs-Elysees) can be both novelty and revelation:
In China, after all, people will pay a whole week’s wages to eat with Colonel
Sanders, and in Paris, Mickey Rourke is regarded as the greatest actor since
Jerry Lewis.
If a Mongolian restaurant seems exotic to us in Evanston, Ill.,
it only follows that a McDonald’s would seem equally exotic in Ulan Bator — or,
at least, equally far from everything expected. Though it’s fashionable
nowadays to draw a distinction between the “tourist” and the “traveler,”
perhaps the real distinction lies between those who leave their assumptions at
home, and those who don’t: Among those who don’t, a tourist is just someone who
complains, “Nothing here is the way it is at home,” while a traveler is one who
grumbles, “Everything here is the same as it is in Cairo — or Cuzco or
Kathmandu.” It’s all very much the same.
But for the rest of us, the sovereign freedom of traveling comes
from the fact that it whirls you around and turns you upside down, and stands
everything you took for granted on its head. If a diploma can famously be a
passport (to a journey through hard
realism), a passport can be a diploma (for a crash course in cultural
relativism). And the first lesson we learn on the road, whether we like it or
not, is how provisional and provincial are the things we imagine to be
universal. When you go to North Korea, for example, you really do feel as if
you’ve landed on a different planet — and the North Koreans doubtless feel that
they’re being visited by an extra-terrestrial, too (or else they simply assume
that you, as they do, receive orders every morning from the Central Committee
on what clothes to wear and what route to use when walking to work, and you, as
they do, have loudspeakers in your bedroom broadcasting propaganda every
morning at dawn, and you, as they do, have your radios fixed so as to receive only
a single channel).
We travel, then, in part just to shake up our complacencies by
seeing all the moral and political urgencies, the life-and-death dilemmas, that
we seldom have to face at home. And we travel to fill in the gaps left by
tomorrow’s headlines: When you drive down the streets of Port-au-Prince, for
example, where there is almost no paving and women relieve themselves next to
mountains of trash, your notions of the Internet and a “one world order” grow
usefully revised. Travel is the best way we have of rescuing the humanity of
places, and saving them from abstraction and ideology.
And in the process, we also get saved from abstraction
ourselves, and come to see how much we can bring to the places we visit, and
how much we can become a kind of carrier pigeon — an anti-Federal Express, if
you like — in transporting back and forth what every culture needs. I find that
I always take Michael Jordan posters to Kyoto, and bring woven ikebana baskets
back to California; I invariably travel to Cuba with a suitcase piled high with
bottles of Tylenol and bars of soap, and come back with one piled high with
salsa tapes, and hopes, and letters to long-lost brothers.
But more significantly, we carry values and beliefs and news to
the places we go, and in many parts of the world, we become walking video
screens and living newspapers, the only channels that can take people out of
the censored limits of their homelands. In closed or impoverished places, like
Pagan or Lhasa or Havana, we are the eyes and ears of the people we meet, their
only contact with the world outside and, very often, the closest, quite
literally, they will ever come to Michael Jackson or Bill Clinton. Not the
least of the challenges of travel, therefore, is learning how to import — and
export — dreams with tenderness.
By now all of us have heard (too often) the old Proust line
about how the real voyage of discovery consists not in seeing new places but in
seeing with new eyes. Yet one of the subtler beauties of travel is that it
enables you to bring new eyes to the people you encounter. Thus even as
holidays help you appreciate your own home more — not least by seeing it
through a distant admirer’s eyes — they help you bring newly appreciative —
distant — eyes to the places you visit. You can teach them what they have to
celebrate as much as you celebrate what they have to teach. This, I think, is
how tourism, which so obviously destroys cultures, can also resuscitate or
revive them, how it has created new “traditional” dances in Bali, and caused
craftsmen in India to pay new attention to their works. If the first thing we
can bring the Cubans is a real and balanced sense of what contemporary America
is like, the second — and perhaps more important — thing we can bring them is a
fresh and renewed sense of how special are the warmth and beauty of their
country, for those who can compare it with other places around the globe.
Thus travel spins us round in two ways at once: It shows us the
sights and values and issues that we might ordinarily ignore; but it also, and
more deeply, shows us all the parts of ourselves that might otherwise grow
rusty. For in traveling to a truly foreign place, we inevitably travel to moods
and states of mind and hidden inward passages that we’d otherwise seldom have
cause to visit.
On the most basic level, when I’m in Thailand, though a
teetotaler who usually goes to bed at 9 p.m., I stay up till dawn in the local
bars; and in Tibet, though not a real Buddhist, I spend days on end in temples,
listening to the chants of sutras. I go to Iceland to visit the lunar spaces
within me, and, in the uncanny quietude and emptiness of that vast and treeless
world, to tap parts of myself generally obscured by chatter and routine.
We travel, then, in search of both self and anonymity — and, of
course, in finding the one we apprehend the other. Abroad, we are wonderfully
free of caste and job and standing; we are, as Hazlitt puts it, just the
“gentlemen in the parlour,” and people cannot put a name or tag to us. And
precisely because we are clarified in this way, and freed of inessential
labels, we have the opportunity to come into contact with more essential parts
of ourselves (which may begin to explain why we may feel most alive when far
from home).
Abroad is the place where we stay up late, follow impulse and
find ourselves as wide open as when we are in love. We live without a past or
future, for a moment at least, and are ourselves up for grabs and open to
interpretation. We even may become mysterious — to others, at first, and
sometimes to ourselves — and, as no less a dignitary than Oliver Cromwell once
noted, “A man never goes so far as when he doesn’t know where he is going.”
There are, of course, great dangers to this, as to every kind of
freedom, but the great promise of it is that, traveling, we are born again, and
able to return at moments to a younger and a more open kind of self. Traveling
is a way to reverse time, to a small extent, and make a day last a year — or at
least 45 hours — and traveling is an easy way of surrounding ourselves, as in childhood,
with what we cannot understand. Language facilitates this cracking open, for
when we go to France, we often migrate to French, and the more childlike self,
simple and polite, that speaking a foreign language educes. Even when I’m not
speaking pidgin English in Hanoi, I’m simplified in a positive way, and
concerned not with expressing myself, but simply making sense.
So travel, for many of us, is a quest for not just the unknown,
but the unknowing; I, at least, travel in search of an innocent eye that can
return me to a more innocent self. I tend to believe more abroad than I do at
home (which, though treacherous again, can at least help me to extend my
vision), and I tend to be more easily excited abroad, and even kinder. And
since no one I meet can “place” me — no one can fix me in my résumé –I can
remake myself for better, as well as, of course, for worse (if travel is
notoriously a cradle for false identities, it can also, at its best, be a
crucible for truer ones). In this way, travel can be a kind of monasticism on
the move: On the road, we often live more simply (even when staying in a luxury
hotel), with no more possessions than we can carry, and surrendering ourselves
to chance.
This is what Camus meant when he said that “what gives value to
travel is fear” — disruption, in other words, (or emancipation) from
circumstance, and all the habits behind which we hide. And that is why many of
us travel not in search of answers, but of better questions. I, like many
people, tend to ask questions of the places I visit, and relish most the ones
that ask the most searching questions back of me: In Paraguay, for example,
where one car in every two is stolen, and two-thirds of the goods on sale are
smuggled, I have to rethink my every Californian assumption. And in Thailand,
where many young women give up their bodies in order to protect their families
— to become better Buddhists — I have to question my own too-ready judgments.
“The ideal travel book,” Christopher Isherwood once said, “should be perhaps a
little like a crime story in which you’re in search of something.” And it’s the
best kind of something, I would add, if it’s one that you can never quite find.
I remember, in fact, after my first trips to Southeast Asia,
more than a decade ago, how I would come back to my apartment in New York, and
lie in my bed, kept up by something more than jet lag, playing back, in my
memory, over and over, all that I had experienced, and paging wistfully though
my photographs and reading and re-reading my diaries, as if to extract some
mystery from them. Anyone witnessing this strange scene would have drawn the
right conclusion: I was in love.
For if every true love affair can feel like a journey to a
foreign country, where you can’t quite speak the language, and you don’t know
where you’re going, and you’re pulled ever deeper into the inviting darkness,
every trip to a foreign country can be a love affair, where you’re left
puzzling over who you are and whom you’ve fallen in love with. All the great
travel books are love stories, by some reckoning — from the Odyssey and the
Aeneid to the Divine Comedy and the New Testament — and all good trips are,
like love, about being carried out of yourself and deposited in the midst of
terror and wonder.
And what this metaphor also brings home to us is that all travel
is a two-way transaction, as we too easily forget, and if warfare is one model
of the meeting of nations, romance is another. For what we all too often ignore
when we go abroad is that we are objects of scrutiny as much as the people we
scrutinize, and we are being consumed by the cultures we consume, as much on
the road as when we are at home. At the very least, we are objects of
speculation (and even desire) who can seem as exotic to the people around us as
they do to us.
We are the comic props in Japanese home-movies, the oddities in
Maliese anecdotes and the fall-guys in Chinese jokes; we are the moving
postcards or bizarre objets trouves that villagers in Peru will later tell
their friends about. If travel is about the meeting of realities, it is no less
about the mating of illusions: You give me my dreamed-of vision of Tibet, and
I’ll give you your wished-for California. And in truth, many of us, even (or
especially) the ones who are fleeing America abroad, will get taken,
willy-nilly, as symbols of the American Dream.
That, in fact, is perhaps the most central and most wrenching of
the questions travel proposes to us: how to respond to the dream that people
tender to you? Do you encourage their notions of a Land of Milk and Honey
across the horizon, even if it is the same land you’ve abandoned? Or do you try
to dampen their enthusiasm for a place that exists only in the mind? To quicken
their dreams may, after all, be to match-make them with an illusion; yet to
dash them may be to strip them of the one possession that sustains them in
adversity.
That whole complex interaction — not unlike the dilemmas we face
with those we love (how do we balance truthfulness and tact?) — is partly the
reason why so many of the great travel writers, by nature, are enthusiasts: not
just Pierre Loti, who famously, infamously, fell in love wherever he alighted
(an archetypal sailor leaving offspring in the form of Madame Butterfly myths),
but also Henry Miller, D.H. Lawrence or Graham Greene, all of whom bore out the
hidden truth that we are optimists abroad as readily as pessimists as home.
None of them was by any means blind to the deficiencies of the places around
them, but all, having chosen to go there, chose to find something to admire.
All, in that sense, believed in “being moved” as one of the
points of taking trips, and “being transported” by private as well as public
means; all saw that “ecstasy” (“ex-stasis”) tells us that our highest moments
come when we’re not stationary, and that epiphany can follow movement as much
as it precipitates it. I remember once asking the great travel writer Norman
Lewis if he’d ever be interested in writing on apartheid South Africa. He
looked at me astonished. “To write well about a thing,” he said, “I’ve got to
like it!”
At the same time, as all this is intrinsic to travel, from Ovid
to O’Rourke, travel itself is changing as the world does, and with it, the
mandate of the travel writer. It’s not enough to go to the ends of the earth
these days (not least because the ends of the earth are often coming to you);
and where a writer like Jan Morris could, a few years ago, achieve something
miraculous simply by voyaging to all the great cities of the globe, now anyone
with a Visa card can do that. So where Morris, in effect, was chronicling the
last days of the Empire, a younger travel writer is in a better position to
chart the first days of a new Empire, post-national, global, mobile and yet as
diligent as the Raj in transporting its props and its values around the world.
In the mid-19th century, the British famously sent the Bible and
Shakespeare and cricket round the world; now a more international kind of
Empire is sending Madonna and the Simpsons and Brad Pitt. And the way in which
each culture takes in this common pool of references tells you as much about
them as their indigenous products might. Madonna in an Islamic country, after
all, sounds radically different from Madonna in a Confucian one, and neither
begins to mean the same as Madonna on East 14th Street. When you go to a
McDonald’s outlet in Kyoto, you will find Teriyaki McBurgers and Bacon Potato
Pies. The placemats offer maps of the great temples of the city, and the
posters all around broadcast the wonders of San Francisco. And — most crucial of
all — the young people eating their Big Macs, with baseball caps worn
backwards, and tight 501 jeans, are still utterly and inalienably Japanese in
the way they move, they nod, they sip their Oolong teas — and never to be
mistaken for the patrons of a McDonald’s outlet in Rio, Morocco or Managua.
These days a whole new realm of exotica arises out of the way one culture
colors and appropriates the products of another.
The other factor complicating and exciting all of this is
people, who are, more and more, themselves as many-tongued and mongrel as
cities like Sydney or Toronto or Hong Kong. I am, in many ways, an increasingly
typical specimen, if only because I was born, as the son of Indian parents, in
England, moved to America at 7 and cannot really call myself an Indian, an
American or an Englishman. I was, in short, a traveler at birth, for whom even
a visit to the candy store was a trip through a foreign world where no one I
saw quite matched my parents’ inheritance, or my own. And though some of this is
involuntary and tragic — the number of refugees in the world, which came to
just 2.5 million in 1970, is now at least 27.4 million — it does involve, for
some of us, the chance to be transnational in a happier sense, able to adapt
anywhere, used to being outsiders everywhere and forced to fashion our own
rigorous sense of home. (And if nowhere is quite home, we can be optimists
everywhere.)
Besides, even those who don’t move around the world find the
world moving more and more around them. Walk just six blocks, in Queens or
Berkeley, and you’re traveling through several cultures in as many minutes; get
into a cab outside the White House, and you’re often in a piece of Addis Ababa.
And technology, too, compounds this (sometimes deceptive) sense of availability,
so that many people feel they can travel around the world without leaving the
room — through cyberspace or CD-ROMs, videos and virtual travel. There are many
challenges in this, of course, in what it says about essential notions of
family and community and loyalty, and in the worry that air-conditioned, purely
synthetic versions of places may replace the real thing — not to mention the
fact that the world seems increasingly in flux, a moving target quicker than
our notions of it. But there is, for the traveler at least, the sense that
learning about home and learning about a foreign world can be one and the same
thing.
All of us feel this from the cradle, and know, in some sense,
that all the significant movement we ever take is internal. We travel when we
see a movie, strike up a new friendship, get held up. Novels are often journeys
as much as travel books are fictions; and though this has been true since at
least as long ago as Sir John Mandeville’s colorful 14th century accounts of a
Far East he’d never visited, it’s an even more shadowy distinction now, as
genre distinctions join other borders in collapsing.
In Mary Morris’s “House Arrest,” a thinly disguised account of
Castro’s Cuba, the novelist reiterates, on the copyright page, “All dialogue is
invented. Isabella, her family, the inhabitants and even la isla itself are
creations of the author’s imagination.” On Page 172, however, we read, “La
isla, of course, does exist. Don’t let anyone fool you about that. It just
feels as if it doesn’t. But it does.” No wonder the travel-writer narrator — a
fictional construct (or not)? — confesses to devoting her travel magazine
column to places that never existed. “Erewhon,” after all, the undiscovered
land in Samuel Butler’s great travel novel, is just “nowhere” rearranged.
Travel, then, is a voyage into that famously subjective zone,
the imagination, and what the traveler brings back is — and has to be — an
ineffable compound of himself and the place, what’s really there and what’s
only in him. Thus Bruce Chatwin’s books seem to dance around the distinction
between fact and fancy. V.S. Naipaul’s recent book, “A Way in the World,” was
published as a non-fictional “series” in England and a “novel” in the United
States. And when some of the stories in Paul Theroux’s half-invented memoir,
“My Other Life,” were published in The New Yorker, they were slyly categorized
as “Fact and Fiction.”
And since travel is, in a sense, about the conspiracy of
perception and imagination, the two great travel writers, for me, to whom I
constantly return are Emerson and Thoreau (the one who famously advised that
“traveling is a fool’s paradise,” and the other who “traveled a good deal in
Concord”). Both of them insist on the fact that reality is our creation, and
that we invent the places we see as much as we do the books that we read. What
we find outside ourselves has to be inside ourselves for us to find it. Or, as
Sir Thomas Browne sagely put it, “We carry within us the wonders we seek
without us. There is Africa and her prodigies in us.”
So, if more and more of us have to carry our sense of home
inside us, we also — Emerson and Thoreau remind us — have to carry with us our
sense of destination. The most valuable Pacifics we explore will always be the
vast expanses within us, and the most important Northwest Crossings the
thresholds we cross in the heart. The virtue of finding a gilded pavilion in
Kyoto is that it allows you to take back a more lasting, private Golden Temple
to your office in Rockefeller Center.
And even as the world seems to grow more exhausted, our travels
do not, and some of the finest travel books in recent years have been those
that undertake a parallel journey, matching the physical steps of a pilgrimage
with the metaphysical steps of a questioning (as in Peter Matthiessen’s great
“The Snow Leopard”), or chronicling a trip to the farthest reaches of human
strangeness (as in Oliver Sack’s “Island of the Color-Blind,” which features a
journey not just to a remote atoll in the Pacific, but to a realm where people actually
see light differently). The most distant shores, we are constantly reminded,
lie within the person asleep at our side.
So travel, at heart, is just a quick way to keeping our minds
mobile and awake. As Santayana, the heir to Emerson and Thoreau with whom I
began, wrote, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the
familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and
it fosters humor.” Romantic poets inaugurated an era of travel because they
were the great apostles of open eyes. Buddhist monks are often vagabonds, in
part because they believe in wakefulness. And if travel is like love, it is, in
the end, mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are
mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That
is why the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.
Question 1.
Guess the difference : travel and travail:
Answer:
Travel guides us towards a better balance of wisdom and compassion, of seeing the world clearly and truly. Travail means agony, or hard toil, which will be the result of laborious travelling and hardships.
Question 2.
Describe the changes that come into us because of travels, especially to foreign countries.
Answer:
When we go abroad, we stay up late, do impulsive things and leave ourselves open to various experiences. We live for the moment, without any past or future; only the present. We may even become mysterious-to others, at first, and sometimes even to ourselves, behaving in new ways. We feel younger, as if we have been reborn.
Question 3.
Explain in your own words how travel can be a kind of ‘monasticism’.
Answer:
‘Monasticism’ means living like monks, living a self-disciplined life that is isolated from other people. When we travel, even if we are living in a luxury hotel, we live more simply than we normally do at home. We have no more possessions than what we can carry, we surrender ourselves to chance, and to whatever may come in our way. Hence, travel can be a kind of ‘monasticism’.
Question 4.
Travelling abroad make us the object of scrutiny. Justify this statement,
Answer:
When we go abroad, the local people there are curious about us and our culture. We seem exotic and different to them and they scrutinize our ways and behaviour to learn and understand more about us.
Question 5.
The writer calls himself ‘many-tongued’ and ‘mongrel’. Give reasons.
Answer:
‘Many-tongued’ means that he knows many languages; ‘mongrel’ here means someone who has a mixed upbringing, someone of mixed cultures. The writer knows many languages. He was born of Indian parents, in England, and he moved to America when he was 7 years old. Hence, he says that he cannot really call himself an Indian, an American or an Englishman.
Question 6.
‘Get into a cab outside the White House, and you’re often in a piece of Addis Ababa.’ Explain the meaning of this sentence.
Answer:
Addis Ababa is the capital of Ethiopia, Africa. The sentence means that the driver of the cab outside the White House was probably an African American, may be originally from Africa.
Question 7.
“We carry within us the wonders we seek without us.” Explain.
Answer:
This means that all the wonders and emotions are within us, and if we wish to, we can tap these forces. Everything is within our own hearts and imagination. Everything is internal. Whatever we find outside has first to be inside us for us to experience it. There is no necessity for any separate outside happenings for us to feel anything.
Question 1.
Name the places you would like to visit the most. Give reasons to support your answer.
Answer:
I like to travel but I have not had much opportunity yet. I love seeing new places and meeting new people. I would love to travel to the North-Eastern parts of India and to foreign countries. I am also a nature lover and would love seeing high mountains, clear lakes and green pastures.
Question 2.
‘Travel helps you to appreciate your own home more’. Justify this statement.
Answer:
Holidays, especially holidays abroad, can certainly help us to appreciate our own homes more. For example, if we go to the African desert and see the problems they have with potable water supply, we will appreciate our own water resources more. If we see the problems faced by people living in very cold climates, we will appreciate the heat in our country, and even be grateful for it.
Question 3.
Do you think that people travel more, or in a different way, as compared to people fifty years back? Explain your view.
Answer:
Yes, people certainly travel more today. They also travel for different reasons. Fifty years back, in India, people generally travelled only for religious reasons or to meet relatives and family. Travelling for sightseeing was rarer. Today, in addition to these reasons, people also travel for fun, relaxation and sight-seeing. People also go on holidays abroad, which was not done often earlier.
Question 4.
Do you think that we must always seek new experiences and new places? Or do you feel that the best place is home, and we must never move?
Answer:
If we just stick to our own homes, we will be like the frog in the pond, which thought its small pond was the whole world. This is not advisable in the world of today. To be happy and successful, we must be broad-minded and unbiased. We must see what the world and other cultures have to offer. We must try to imbibe the best from other cultures and places.
Language Study:
Question 1.
We carry values and beliefs and news to the places we go.
(Rewrite using ‘not only but also.)
Answer:
We carry not only values and beliefs but also news to the places we go.
Question 2.
Travel is the best way we have of rescuing the humanity of places.
(Use an infinitive in place of the gerund.)
Answer:
Travel is the best way we have to rescue the humanity of places.
Question 3.
The beauty of this process was best described by George Santayana.
(Rewrite beginning George Santayana)
Answer:
George Santayana best described the beauty of this process.
Question 4.
Yet for me the first great joy of travelling is simply the luxury of leaving all my beliefs and certainties at home. (Pick out the finite verb and say whether the sentence is simple, compound or complex.)
Answer:
finite verb-is; simple sentence
Question 5.
Pick out the phrasal verb from this sentence:
Abroad is the place where we stay up late.
Answer:
stay up
Question 6.
Travelling is a way to reverse time. (Identify the part of speech of the underlined word.)
Answer:
travelling – gerund
Question 7.
I tend to believe more abroad than I do at home. (Rewrite using as….as..)
Answer:
I tend not to believe as much at home as I do abroad.
Question 8.
Pick out the phrasal verb from these sentences:
Answer:
1. I remember, in fact, after my first trip to Southeast Asia, more than a decade ago, how I would come back to my apartment in New York.
2. All, in that sense, believed in, “being moved”
Answer:
1. come back
2. believed in
Question 9.
Anyone witnessing this strange scene would have drawn the right conclusion.
(Rewrite using ‘who’)
Answer:
Anyone who witnessed this strange scene would have drawn the right conclusion.
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